PhotographJohn French (1906-66)1960sLondonJohn French Archive, V&A ref. Fashion: 150 Years Couturiers, Designers, Labels The War of the Worlds - Krieg der Welten Wir vom Jahrgang 1950 - Kindheit und Jugend (Jahrgangsbände): 70. However, couture influenced the silhouette and style of more affordable fashions, and dressmakers everywhere followed its lead. It shows a glamorous young woman wearing an elegant fur-trimmed suit, together with the latest cloche hat and bobbed hair. Summer day dressDesigner unknown1905Great BritainPrinted striped cotton, with a yoke neck of tucked Broderie Anglaise frills and pin-tucked collar with a tape lace frillMuseum no. In 1956 the Austin Reed catalogue announced an updated version of the smoking jacket, named the television jacket. The dress buttons down the back. She worked with the young designers, Paul Babb and Pamela Proctor to ensure they designed clothes she would happily wear herself, such as this brightly patterned mini-dress. Photograph of fashion modelsJohn French (1906-66)1960sLondonJohn French Archive, V&A JF6745/3. popular during the 1930's, she had a taste for the theatrical, with her signature color of popping pink. The famous 1960s model, Twiggy, launched her fashion label 'Twiggy Dresses' on 16 February 1967. This dress was worn by Miss Heather Firbank (1888-1954), daughter of the affluent Member of Parliament Sir Thomas Firbank and sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank. Es ist unheimlich empfehlenswert herauszufinden, ob es bereits Erfahrungen mit dem Mittel gibt. Lounge suit (jacket, waistcoat, trousers)Designer unknown1918-20Great BritainWoven tweed with a vertical stripe; (Jacket) Lined with twill ; (Waistcoat) Lined with linen with a narrow black and wider brown stripeMuseum no. His collections continued to be a great success. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s he shot the latest fashions for magazines and newspapers, and he usually photographed affordable, high-street ranges that many teenagers would be able to buy. In 1903, she published Das Eigenkleid der Frau (Women’s Own Dress) which urged readers to eschew Paris fashions (Hennessey 236). Pants were either ankle-length to the mid-calf, drawers were either just below or just above the knee. Just like the middle … E.1602-1954. By the 1880s the top hat was relegated to more formal occasions when a gentleman would wear a frock or tail coat. The block-printed design of the lining fabric first appeared in about 1912 and was constantly re-issued - most recently in the 1970s.  The cloche hat worn with it here is very typical of the 1920s. The cut of this jacket is derived from the earlier 'reefer' coat, usually worn for sailing. Soft shoulders, and tiny waist, and a large full skirt were coined by Dior. SuitMoss Bros1969LondonWool twillMuseum no. The Victoria and Albert Museum writes, “from 1914 to the end of the decade, many men were photographed in military uniform” (History of Fashion 1900-1970). Most shoes were high-heeled, even for dancing, necessitating straps over the instep. This outfit would have been worn as a walking suit. Evening dressJays Ltd. (designers)About 1908LondonSatin, with silk panels embroidered with silver-gilt strip, coil, thread, spangles, pearls and diamantes, and trimmed with velvet, with boned bodice; net is modern replacementMuseum no. By the mid-decade of 1900s to 1910s, hats were trimmed with masses of feathers and even with stuffed, taxidermied birds. The line is straight and the cut (especially of the cross-over draped bodice) is intricate. T.356-1984Given by Martin Kamer. But, despite the best efforts of fashion designers to be inventive without wasting precious fabric, there was a very limited choice. Kay, Ossie Clark's sister, wore it as a mini-dress when Clark married Celia Birtwell in 1968. Wreaths decorated with small wax flowers - in this case, orange blossoms on wire stems - were popular wedding accessories of the 1930s.  They were made to sit on top of the head, both as a decoration and a way of holding the long veil in place. Pair of shoesLilley & Skinner (manufacturers)About 1925BelgiumGold kid, painted and lined with grey kidMuseum no. Paul Cocteau'. How did Coco Chanel become famous? Crisp-looking blue and white dresses such as this were popular for boating and seaside wear. It needed many layers of petticoats to fill the skirt and show the embroidery to its best advantage. Throughout the 1920s he also consistently championed the shorter length of skirt that did much to stimulate the demand for stockings. Here she composed a short-sleeved dress in matt black crepe. People dreamed of the luxurious past, but lived with a new economic severity. belledoughman. Fahion in 1900-1909 Tall, stiff collars characterize the period, as do women's broad hats and full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles. However, couture influenced the silhouette and style of more affordable fashions, and dressmakers everywhere followed its lead. His uncle owned a fur business, which Patou joined. An almost identical version made in lamé was featured in Vogue magazine, where it was described as an ideal presentation dress. Long, simple and clinging evening gowns, made of satin were popular. The flamenco dress was a recurring theme in 1950s cocktail and evening wear. Separates were popular, with skirt… Paper Fashion. Here Haley uses the image of a woman driver to represent a modern outlook and an independent lifestyle. Beaton's photographs of Mrs Simpson in her Mainbocher ensemble were particularly successful. T.21 to B-1960Worn by Miss Heather Firbank. T.170&A-1990Worn and given by Mrs Wyndgate. Dior offered the glamour and romance of full skirts and nipped-in waists to women who were tired of utilitarian clothes with boxy silhouettes, mannish square shoulders and practical short skirts. Evening dressVictor Stiebel (1907-76)1950sLondonSatin embroidered with beads and rhinestonesMuseum no. T.306-1974Given by Vern Lambert. High-waisted with broad lapels and sometimes belts, they reached to the mid-calf for the midi and to the ankles for the maxi. Day dress and hatDress, designer unknown, Hat, by Henry of LondonAbout 1910Great BritainMuseum no. A fashionable young woman would have worn this garment either as a mini-dress or with trousers. This style of delicate pale dress was immensely popular for wear at summer garden parties and fêtes. Older men sported beards, but younger men wore moustaches or went clean-shaven. Illustration for 'The Lady' magazineMarcel Fromenti1950-4EnglandPen and ink on paperMuseum no. He played an important role in the rejuvenation of Paris fashion. It is a simple and effective image of a tall and elegant man smoking. A slightly high waistline was fashionable, as was a long tunic-like top worn over an ankle length A-line or 'hobble' skirt (cinched in at the hem). The dress was donated as unsold stock from a smart boutique called 'Merlyn', in London's East End, reputedly patronised by gangsters and their girlfriends. The deep v-neck of this dress typifies Dior's 'Y' motif, as does the inverted Y shape of the pleats of the skirt, Evening dressWorth LondonAbout 1955LondonSilk dupion with embroidery of sequins, pastes and crystal beads; lined with taffeta and faced with netMuseum no. T.212:4-1996. Four sisters, Marie, Marthe, Regina and Joséphine, had opened a lace shop in 1888. In 1942, the British Government established the Utility Scheme to ration materials and regulate the production of civilian clothing during the war.  Utility Scheme clothes bear a printed stamp reading 'CC41', an abbreviation of the Civilian Clothing Act of 1941. The dress has a simple collar and spotted cravat. If there's one item that was as ubiquitous in the '80s as it is today, it's leggings. The floral design, by Celia Birtwell, was printed onto imitation paper made by Johnson and Johnson, formed from bonded textile fibres. The textile design is a plain grid pattern. BensonFrederick Hollyer (1837-1933)About 1900LondonPlatinum printMuseum no. Emilio Pucci was well known for using bright, eye-catching prints in his designs. It was important to be dressed appropriately for the occasion. Also, designers introduced embellishments like bold prints and surface decorations in an attempt to break away from the minimal adornment of the bias-cut line. It reveals Balenciaga’s debt to his training in tailoring in Spain and his capacity for choosing fabrics fit for purpose. Skirts were a little below the knee and straight, worn with boxy jackets and broad, padded shoulders. Dior often named his collections after letters of the alphabet, and this particular dress comes from the 'Y line'. In History. During the 1920s there where many influential designers that managed to maintain their name and influence in the fashion world. (Teddy derives from Eddy, a diminutive of Edward.). Utility clothes were usually identified by a distinctive double crescent CC41 (Civilian Clothing) label. The few garments designed by Nabob in the V&A's collection are made from imported 'exotic' materials. 7699-1938, The sitter in this photograph is a Member of Parliament, and is shown wearing formal business dress of the 1900s. He is wearing a jacket, waistcoat, high starched 'winged' collar, and sports a fashionable curled moustache.Â. Manners for Men, by Mrs Humphry ('Madge of Truth'), reported: 'Frequently a silk hat is never seen between Sunday and Sunday. Jean Patou – The Sporty Designer. She purchased Worth gowns between 1947 and 1962. This is a list of notable fashion designers sorted by nationality. This dress appeared in the Summer 1969 mail order catalogue. Side saddle riding habit (jacket, skirt, breeches)John Redfern (1853-29)1912, LondonBlack wool flecked with white, lined with pearl grey satin (jacket) and cotton twill (skirt); breeches of woollen jerseyMuseum no. 'Maxim' cocktail dressChristian Dior (1905-57)1947ParisSilk velvet and wool, with ribbed silk petticoat, and zip and buttonsMuseum no. CIRC.969-1967, This photograph appeared in the American edition of Vogue fashion magazine. Evening ensembleNabobAbout 1927LondonSilk georgette, the belt embroidered with metal threadMuseum no. The dress exposes the décolletage, shoulders and arms, and the long skirt is fitted around the hips and fluted towards the hem. Bernard Weatherill was a men's tailoring and equestrian dress-maker, established in Savile Row in 1912. Soft materials were used such as silk, velvet or wool in dark reds, greens, blues, brown or black. This did not become a widespread fashion as by this date few men felt the need to wear a special garment for watching television or smoking. During the day, wool suits with shoulder pads, and fluted knee-length skirts were worn. It was featured in French Vogue (March 1966 and March 1967). Joan Regan was a popular singer with a particularly glamorous image. Here she is shown in a full-length, off the shoulder evening gown. The bodice is shaped, and is probably corseted. Her hair is set with curls around the face, and she wears bright red lipstick. They wore practical clothing that was suitable for work, and many daring modern women took to wearing trousers. T.52-1985Given by Mrs A. Walford. The infiltration of sporting dress into informal styles of clothing shows how social conventions were relaxing in the late 19th century. Photograph of ladies walking in the Avenue des Acacias, ParisJacques-Henri Lartigue (1894-1986)1911, ParisGelatine silver printMuseum no. Sleeves stayed full at the top through 1909. The Timeline offers scholarly contributions to the public knowledge of the history of fashion and design. The 1930s silhouette is therefore slinky and close-fitting and the line was simple and uncluttered. He has different costumes for walking, riding, driving, visiting, boating, hunting, shooting, golfing, bicycling, tennis, and cricket, dining, smoking, and lounging, football, racing, and yachting, to say nothing of uniform and the Court suit, besides the now developing motor-car costume'. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark, Fashion photograph for Vogue magazineEdward J. Steichen (1879-1973)1930 (photographed), ca. Businessman. The House of Worth, established in Paris in 1858 by Charles Frederick Worth (1826-95), was the original and founding couture house. 07/21/2011. The originators were probably influenced at first by their familiarity with the customary civilian dress for Guards officers, which consisted of a bowler hat, a double-breasted overcoat known as a 'British warm', a striped shirt with white collar and pin-stripe trousers. This photograph shows the actress Henriette Henriot in stylish dress. This dress dates from about 1955, when Owen Hyde-Clark was the chief designer. Their reputation for micro-minis started almost by accident following a shipment of jersey skirts in 1966. This very fashionable example from 1910 is made of a fine black straw. He was soon patronised by the Empress Eugenie and her influence was instrumental to his success. Couturier clothing like this was custom-made for each individual client, and was out of most women's reach. He was asked to disguise the 'CC' so that the public would not recognise the letters as such. His career was interrupted by the First World War of 1914-1918, but in 1919 he reopened his salon, this time under his own name. Some top hats had ventilation holes in the crown. Born into a Jewish family in Frankfurt, she initially pursued an academic career before moving to Paris in 1930 to concentrate on photography. This fabric allowed free movement, but at the same time was sufficiently rigid to maintain the clear-cut shapes. Below we have listed some influential fashion designers of the 1920s. Four Portraits of Halston, Andy Warhol, 1975, Private Collection . Suit (skirt and jacket)Hardy Amies (1909-2003)1947LondonTailored worstedMuseum no. Art Scene. Fashion design moved toward simpler lines to reflect the simpler lives of the public. T.104-1982Given by Mrs D. M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark. Simple dresses were teamed with short or long capes, or boleros. 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