We even saw a group with a wheelbarrow full of supplies trundling down to the beach! Forest entrances and campsites are marked with hanging floats. Everyone got a chance to sleep in and have a leisurely coffee and breakfast. This was the last whale we saw on our trip…and Mike and I saw her together. Cape Scott North Coast Trail Progress Report December, 2004. On the peaceful trip back, we saw a lone gray whale close to shore, rubbing herself on the bottom rocks. The last few hundred metres were flat and gravelly. Cape Scott Park is open year-round (check website for updates on trail conditions in case areas are closed for safety reasons), however fees are only collected from May 1 … Excellent weather, an awesome team, lots of physical challenges, and beautiful scenery. If you have saved “cleaner” or “drier” clothes, there is a large picnic shelter at the Cape Scott Trailhead to change and organize gear. 2013. Wednesday, August 15, 2012. Irony Creek is an excellent water source. The challenge ramped up from there as our team climbed up a steep embankment with the aid of a rope. We followed the wolf tracks once again, and even saw a small black bear foraging in the sandy eelgrass. Listen carefully to Captain George’s safety instructions. This trail is a step back in time about 25 years to what the West Coast Trail used to be. Nels makes a great basecamp if you want to add the Cape Scott Lighthouse to your North Coast Trail adventure. Artifacts near Fisherman Bay included the remains of an old wharf where the Danes tried (and failed) to ship supplies. The more western zone has fresh water. The fresh water source is a bit of a hunt…look for a path into the forest from the beach. Christensen Point was an important and scenic landmark. 3 years ago. Avoid this zone! We were lucky to experience abundant marine mammal sightings. I felt alive, safe, young, strong, confident, humbled, lucky, awestruck. We departed camp at 1018 h and enjoyed sunny white sand beaches and passed only one other hiker. Scale 1:50,000. Courtesy Harbour Publishing. We arrived at the Stranby River cable car crossing at 1130 h. Cable car rides are highlights of the trail! The mix of sand, pebbles, cobbles, and sloped angles drained our energy. We took short breaks in the open bog areas to hunt for carnivorous sundew flowers. Our first welcome sight was John Tidbury and the famous North Coast Trail Shuttle. She studied English and Environmental Studies, and has extensive experience hiking the trails of Vancouver Island. I packed along Maria I. Bremner’s excellent new guidebook: Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island’s Wildest Coast. BC Parks charges each person $10 per night to hike the North Coast Trail. The Cape to Cape Walk Track runs for 123 kilometres along the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, between the lighthouses of Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin in the far south west of Western Australia. The weather was clear and calm, making for an excellent sunset dinner by the sea. We sighted our second lone wolf at Shuttleworth Bight. Our team arrived to Cape Sutil at 0758 h. Two hikers from Holland were waiting for the water taxi to take them back to Port Hardy. From here there is a well-cut hiking trail, it is approximately 14 miles (23 kilometres) to the Cape Scott Point. Read Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island Ebook Free. The biggest obstacle of the day was a steep hill near Cape Sutil. We descended to Nissen Bight by 1314 h and enjoyed watching whales off the beach. Purple fireweed near the east end of Shuttleworth Bight was our beacon. We filled our hungry bellies, shared stories of the trail with other hikers, and learned trivia about the Port Hardy area from John. Each year, thousands of backpackers and nature lovers head to the northern limits of Vancouver Island, bound for the jewel of the region: Cape Scott Provincial Park and the recently completed North Coast Trail. I felt happy like our cetacean friends. Unlock the secrets of northern Vancouver Island with this comprehensive guidebook about Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail. Obtaining drinking water was a small adventure. . Sea gulls love bathing in Skinner Creek, so we collected water far upstream! KyongColby. These are all up-dated as of July, 2020. Discover the magic of the Cape Scott Trail with Wild Coast. After hiking Nissen Bight, we entered the forest again. They offer great views down the river banks from the middle of the span. The guests were motoring ahead, excited and eager. • the North Coast Trail is a 43.1km extension to the original Cape Scott Trail. There are always pockets of solitude at these designated campsites. Humpback whales, porpoises, seals, and a sea otter joined us on the water taxi ride. Hiking later in the summer season meant that some of the creeks were now dry. Skinner Creek Camp was busy in the core zone, but our group set up camp east of the creek. Captain George can drop hikers off at different start points east of Shushartie (e.g. We were real coastal hikers now, decked out in full rain gear, plodding and slipping along boardwalks, old corduroy road, and mud puddles. Soon we saw the blue and fog appear through the trees. The grip of mental focus released as we transitioned into recovery mode. We usually set up camp on the west end to be close to the “facilities” and make a trip for water afterwards. Start longer-distance days early so you can can pace yourself. The overland bog and rainforest zones obscured frogs from sight, but we heard their croaking sounds. The deer jumped into the ocean and swam across the bay. This route is very challenging, and not recommended for beginners. ... Get in touch. We were happy that the beach was almost deserted, unusual for this popular zone. Cape Scott Provincial Park is one of Vancouver Island’s wildest and most scenic parks, protecting the entire north coast of Vancouver Island from San Josef Bay around Cape Scott to Shushartie Bay near Port Hardy. I made it all the way to the Stranby River, noticing a huge quantity of sand and seaweed far upstream. Unlock the secrets of northern Vancouver Island with this comprehensive guidebook about Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail. mabidiwe. Animals sighted that day included small frogs on the beach, eagles, sea gulls, and ravens on the big Shuttleworth rock. They would be the only other humans we would see for three days! He hugged me and said, “The wilderness is in your eyes. We completed the official BC Parks North Coast Trail PLUS the Cape Scott Trail system with the historic Lighthouse as an extension…almost 84 km in total! There are tent pads available in the sheltered forest or you may camp on the sand. John Baldwin’s map is so accurate that we saw whales exactly where he indicated! The experience felt challenging, rugged, free, spontaneous, and wild…remote, but not lonely. There are two new tent pads and an outhouse. The boulders, pebbles, and tide pools along this stretch were spectacular. HD Video of the North Coast Trail. Laughing Loon Lake was haunting and beautiful in the fog. (Note: the pages are not water-proof even though I thought they might be). The two camping areas at San Josef Bay have outhouses and food lockers. Cape Scott Park website: www.capescottpark.com San Josef Bay Trail – 5 km round trip, out and back Cape Scott Trail – 15 km one way, plenty of camping options North Coast Trail – 58 km one way, start at the Cape Scott Trailhead or Shushartie Bay Raft Cove – 4 km round trip, out and back, beachfront camping available 0:31 [P.D.F] Thomas Kinkade s Cape Light: A Christmas Secret (Cape Light Novel) [A.U.D.I.O.B.O.O.K] The Holberg Road, off Hwy 19, just south of the Town of Port Hardy, is the access point for the Cape Scott Trail. We spent some time learning to rig the group tarp. Our group was a team of horses back to the barn…excited for pub food at the Scarlet Ibis and hot showers back in Port Hardy. Look for remnants of the Danish settlers along the entire route. It is the easiest section of the North Coast trail and also the most maintained. Wildlife viewing included several eagles, hermit thrushes, Pacific wrens, Steller’s jays, a loon at camp, and jumping fish! The lot is about 64 kilometres west of Port Hardy, and can be reached by car through a combination of public highways and private, active logging roads. Trail maintenance continued in full force over the summer season. Notably it is now crossed by the North Coast Trail, a land route created in 2008 to join with the older Cape Scott Trail that runs from San Josef Bay to the lighthouse. We did the North Coast Trail reverse of most- start at Cape Scott Trail head and only went as far as Cape Sutil, leaving the last 16km overland mud stog off. This was a special moment for our Spanish guest who had never seen whales before. Watch for whales and other marine mammals. We carry Maria Bremner’s guidebook in our pack. The best wildlife experience of the day was listening to a pack of howling wolves near camp! An extension to the Cape Scott Lighthouse is highly recommended if you have the time. coast of Vancouver Island. In late spring, Mike took a solo opportunity to hike the Cape Scott Trails and North Coast Trail. From here there is a well-cut hiking trail, it is approximately 14 miles (23 kilometres) to the Cape Scott Point. All designated sites have food lockers and outhouses. North Coast Trail describes coastal hiking routes in Cape Scott Provincial Park at the northwest tip of Vancouver Island, BC. Cape Scott Park and the North Coast Trail Canada's most remote backcountry experience. Even though Shushartie is a designated campsite, it is not ideal due to being small, steep, rocky, and no easy access to water. Some of us took advantage of the cold ocean and washed off the mud. BC's new coastal hiking destination is an addition to the world famous Cape Scott Provincial Park. Birds dominated the wildlife scene as usual and we were always glad to see so many of them. The tide dropped for a second time, revealing the rocky treasures below, and trapping the jellyfish once again. Michaela French. An alarm was set for our final day to hike 17 km to the Cape Scott Trailhead on time to meet North Coast Trail Shuttle van. If your looking for adventure or freedom backpacking is the answer!!! Every step required intense mental focus. Once we were out of the forest, it was all about kilometres of beach, with cobbles, tide pools, sand, pebbles, bleached eelgrass, and rocky shelves. The main challenges to avoid this week included heat exhaustion and dehydration, especially when hiking the long beach sections. Who could feel lonely in the company of so many creatures: whales, wolves, bears, eagles, ravens. Other marine mammals included sea lions and harbour seals. Today was all about being transported from the urban to the wilderness. We can get you to/from the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott trailhead(s) & drop-off spots by water or land. A special marine mammal sighting from aboard the Cape Scott Water Taxi was two sea otters. All of us rested on our poles for a while, excitedly watching him comb the beach before he saw us and ran into the forest. The minimum recommended one way hiking time is 5 days; although, it is more commonly completed in 6 to 8 days. Bremner M. Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island’s Wildest Coast. Cape Sutil Camp (6 km) was located on a beautiful sandy beach. These overnight camping fees are only collected from May 1 to September 30 when backcountry services are provided. We like to lie on the beach and elevate our feet at rest stops! Excited to start the North Coast Trail, we boarded the Cape Scott Water Taxi at 0634 h at the Port Hardy marina and motored to Cape Sutil. The air was warm and humid and we ditched jackets. [Download] Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island s Wildest Coast Paperback. Water and storms shaped a massive berm of cobbles and pebbles with dry rivers of boulders. Hikers will venture into the rainforests, marshlands, and along wide stretches of abandoned beaches to experience the remote beauty of the park. Our team was strong and worked together well. The terrain changed from beach to forest to grassy meadow near Hansen Lagoon. It felt so good and cleansing to be in the cold ocean, body-surfing the waves, sand scouring my muddy skin. 36 photos North Coast Trail day 4. The reward for our effort was the gorgeous Shuttleworth Bight…a huge and expansive sand beach similar to Long Beach on the west coast. Each year, thousands of backpackers and nature lovers head to the northern limits of Vancouver Island, bound for the jewel of the region: Cape Scott Provincial Park and the recently completed North Coast Trail. The maps also show roads that access the Trail (including gated roads) and campsites. Each year, thousands of backpackers and nature lovers head to the northern limits of Vancouver Island, bound for the jewel of the region: Cape Scott Provincial Park and the recently completed North Coast Trail. Courtesy Harbour Publishing. After setting up, Mike and I hiked the kilometre back to the water source near the eastern camp, collecting eight litres for our group. After a comforting hot lunch at the Scarlet Ibis Pub in Holberg, we lurched along the soaked roads back to Port Hardy. The big tree that fell years ago across the trail was still there…a project low on the BC Parks maintenance list! More music than any other day on the trail. We see a lot of wolf tracks here in the mornings. Here are some tips to enhance your camping experience: Our third and final North Coast Trail and Cape Scott Trails trip of the season was another spectacular experience. Distance: 49 kmDuration: 7 daysPeak: 123 mGain: 964 mMap: CalTopo. The Cape Scott Marine Trail adds to the adventurous nature of the landscape by adding a designated water route that snakes the coastline, then turns back inland at Quatsino Sound. A short hike along the North Coast Trail behind the forest campsites leads to a gravel bar where fresh water can be collected. Cape Scott North Coast Trail Progress Report November. Our route comprised an endless series of small, gorgeous crescent beaches and short forest sections. Yet, when combined with a round trip to/from the Cape Scott Ligthouse, and the trip south to the San Josef staging area, the trip totals nearly 80 km. The North Coast Trail Shuttle van provides seasonal service to hikers at the Cape Scott Trailhead (west). Our tired legs and feet were relieved to finally arrive at the expansive Laura Creek Camp (25 km). We jumped off the bow and helped each other off-load our full packs. The fog prevented any epic views, but we still enjoyed the light station structures and reading the guest book. There is a food locker, outhouse, and water source. The real action was under the surface, where marine animals lived their lives out of sight as we hiked along. There were showers overnight, but the drips stopped before we exited the tents. The tent pads at the North Coast Trail were large enough to accommodate our tent. After 7.8 km we arrived at Irony Creek Camp. Here are a few extra tips to make your shuttle van experience better: North Coast Trail Shuttle will not be running between the Cape Scott Parking Lot and Port Hardy in 2020. Water is located at the east side, close to where the trail exits the forest. Otherwise we heard our coastal bird friends: Pacific wrens, hermit thrushes, ravens, and eagles. Canada's most remote backcountry experience. The North Coast Trail is just one backpacking trip I've done. This trail is a step back in time about 25 years to what the West Coast Trail used to be. Remember this feeling. The sun came out at last so we could dry our bodies and gear. Our backpacks were heavy with seven days of food. We surprised a lone wolf feeding in the intertidal zone east of the tombolo. George, the captain, was a total professional. 4K Shares. Before I start a backpacking trip, I always wonder what the adventure will feel like. The day was sunny and hot, eagles and ravens were talking to each other, and we were the cleanest we would be for a week. Before dinner, the sun showed its yellow face and a few of us went swimming with the whales. Distance: 12.7 kmDuration: 8 h 35 minPeak: 11 mGain: 25 m. We love the warm-up walk along Shuttleworth Bight with 2 km of hard flat sand first thing. We disembarked the Sea Legend I and began our hike. Trailhead transportation for the North Coast Trail must be reserved in advance. We are not sure if there is a food locker here yet. On the way back, we passed a hiker who saw a bear at Nels Bight. We also passed the Community Hall ruins and an old well. Children from six to 15 years old are $5 per person per night. The fascinating history of the area is well-researched. Today was a big day on challenging beach terrain, so we got an early start. Outside of these dates, transport must be arranged on an individual basis, which can come at a higher cost, but can also offer more solitude if that’s what you’re after. We observed a lot of bear activity during the trip. Go to Wild Coast Magazine or John Baldwin.ca online for a great map and description of the Cape Scott North Coast Trail. There was the feeling of anticipation as we hung out near the dock, waiting to board the Cape Scott Water Taxi. The Holberg Road, off Hwy 19, just south of the Town of Port Hardy, is the access point for the Cape Scott Trail. We watched the wolf wait for the deer to return to shore, but the deer was smarter. 0:25 [Download] Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island s Wildest Coast Kindle. There’s a lot of artifacts leftover from the settlement attempts and these make for great history interpretation. It’s useful spot to wait if you can’t solve the Tripod tide problem until the tides are lower. We can get you to/from the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott trailhead(s) & drop-off spots by water or land. The Cape Scott Trail can be accessed from Port Hardy. Of course we spotted the usual eagles, ravens, and Steller’s jays! The trail section went on for hours, with obstacles such as slippery logs, staircases, thick bushes, slick roots, broken boardwalks, and deep mud to keep things interesting. It was a pleasure to have camp already set up. Whales spouted all the time now, in fact they became our most common wildlife sighting. There was lots of time for photos and relaxing. Instead, the water taxi transported our group to this marine trailhead the evening before. Part trail map, part field guide, part regional history, this book equips visitors with everything they need to know to make the most of the park. Old fence posts sagged under their own decay. The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park was by far the best backpacking trip of my life. North Coast Trail: A topographic route map for hiking the North Coast and Cape Scott Trails on Vancouver Island. NORTH COAST TRAIL , JUN 2015 - Located on the northern tip of Vancouver Island, this epic trail entails complete solitude and wildlife sightings along its remote coastal journey. Spirits were high and bodies were strong as we navigated several steep slopes with sturdy helper ropes. We probably scared a bear, said the Parks Facility Operators that were camping there too. Our camp at Nels Bight was incredible. The extensive boardwalks of Laughing Loon Lake made a perfect spot for a long lunch. 9 talking about this. We loved this trip! Pin. It is a gloomy forest site about 50 metres from the trailhead with tent pads. As you will see in the map legends,the maps indicate completed trail sections in green, sections of the route using roads in yellow, proposed/projected sections of trail in olive green, and sections over water in blue. Later in the trip, we watched numerous black bears search for food in the seaweed piles near Laura Creek. Some of us hiked up and down the entire length of the sand, watching the whales and the sandpipers. Location: Near Port Hardy, BC.Part of Cape Scott Provincial Park. ... West Coast Trail – Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Maria Bremner has been an avid hiker, nature enthusiast and writer all her life. Mike passed two day hikers, 19 backpackers, and six kayak campers during his week in Cape Scott Provincial Park. 0:25 [Download] Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island s Wildest Coast Kindle. Eagles were always present along the way, with some ducks paddling in the pocket beaches. Carry it with you as long as you can. We enjoyed our final descent through the forest, watching the trees for breaks and views of the beach. Sand dunes with grasses were a beautiful feature of this area, complete with more Danish artifacts. Even if a creek is not tidal, seagulls seem to love bathing near the mouth. We were lucky with excellent marine wildlife sightings earlier in the day. When I was a kid, I wanted to be a marine biologist. It's approximately an 18 kilometer, 5 or 6 hour hike, from the trailhead to Nels Bight. The last stretch was the most difficult with beach-walking on cobbles and pebbles. Pickup time in the parking lot is at 1300h. The North Coast Trail is a 43.1 km (26.8 mi) wilderness hiking trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park on northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Part trail map, part field guide, part regional history, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail is the first comprehensive guidebook about one of Vancouver Island's most iconic destinations. We took an extra long snack break there to prepare for the long coastal section to Laura Creek Camp. Solo hiking requires excellent trip planning, a high level of fitness, extensive knowledge of the route, and a solid emergency plan. In that fuzzy place where you know you are almost done, almost back to a hot shower and a comfortable bed, I get a lump in my throat and tear up. On our last day we finally woke to real rain! Bald eagles, hawks, sanderlings, ravens, crows, jays, and seagulls were with us on most days. broccoli trees) and Nahwitti Cone above the ocean below. After a leisurely breakfast and camp breakdown, we packed up and hiked Shuttleworth Bight by 1000 h. The skies started to clear and we enjoyed cruising the wide open flat sand towards the west end of the beach. We help each other unload backpacks. We saw a pod of four brightly coloured kayakers paddling west, braving the rolling seas. Nels Bight is similar to Nissen Bight, but is larger, sandier, and better situated for sunset viewing. Smaller omnivores who caught our eye included squirrels, mice, and a mink. That dream didn’t happen, but last week I immersed myself in a rich coastal environment that felt like home. There is a tide problem between the two camps, so take this into consideration when trip planning. Outside of these dates, transport must be arranged on an individual basis, which can come at a higher cost, but can also offer more solitude if that’s what you’re after. Wild Isle Publications. Port Hardy is the staging area for the North Coast Trail. The sky was clear and we enjoyed a spectacular sunset after dinner, slow and orange. Shushartie Bay, Nahwitti Beach, Cape Sutil & More… LEARN MORE It is rugged, challenging, and intimate in its remoteness. Her descriptions of each trail section are very accurate and the fascinating history of the area is well-researched. Trails North Coast Trail. Hikers Must Pre-Book. The North Coast Trail is a 43.1km extension to the original Cape Scott trail. The only organism that broke up the grey was the dark brown bulbs of bull kelp. It is a popular weekend spot, as hikers can access it from the Cape Scott Trailhead. Our group made lots of noise on the way back! The crowds got thicker as we closed in on popular San Josef Bay. The canine had killed a deer, and was feeding. The route is marked on a 1:50,000 scale topographic map and includes information on distances and hiking times, recommended campsites, tide cutoffs, sources of drinking water and noteworthy features. The North Coast Trail ends at the eastern end of the beach at Nissen Bight. Fisherman River Camp is not the prettiest spot, but there is plenty of water. Here is a fantastic HD video of The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park: Posted by CapeScottPark at 9:38 AM No comments: Our team was beat and fell asleep to the surf crashing on sand. A must do for the avid backcountry explorer! On our warm and misty second day, we finally got our hike on. There is a BC Parks Facility Officer cabin (yurt) at this location. BradlyEscobar. The North Coast Trail is just one backpacking trip I've done. After the wolf returned to the forest, eagles dropped onto the carcass to grab some nutrients. This was the real rainforest, bathing us in all the fresh molecules of nature. The Cape Scott Marine Trail adds to the adventurous nature of the landscape by adding a designated water route that snakes the coastline, then turns back inland at Quatsino Sound. A VITA volunteer – Alan Philip of Duncan – has compiled a series of 7 topographic maps that cover the entire Trail from Victoria to Cape Scott. 10 passenger Chevy van will pick you up from the Cape Scott Parking lot when your hike is complete. When the tide came in, we jumped into the cold ocean again, refreshing our bodies in the waves. Light showers turned the cool evening damp, signalling an end to the evening entertainment. The beach camping is excellent. Michaela French. Cape Scott Park and the North Coast Trail Canada's most remote backcountry experience. Take lots of breaks. North Coast Trail – Cape Scott Provincial Park. Cape Scott Provincial Park is a wilderness area, preserving a truly magnificent area of coastal British Columbia. The North Coast Trail is a remote and rugged wilderness zone. The official camp - with pit toilet and food cache - is 1 km down the beach. The famous mud was mostly dry in texture, with no deep holes for sinking up to the knees. Shuttleworth Bight is a massive beach that beckons hikers to stay an extra day. I saw the cormorant sitting there still, watching the sea from his home. This resource includes information and tips to help plan your adventure in Cape Scott Provincial Park. The silver colour of the water blended with the sky, eliminating the horizon. She became our expert spotter for the rest of the trip. However, like no other account on the market today, it also explores the human history and culture of the area - from First Peoples through to colonization and conservation. Warm temperatures created the usual marine fog, which usually burned off in the afternoon. Water sources between camps may be sparse during dry summers. Read The Wild Coast Volume 1: A Kayaking Hiking and Recreation Guide for North and West Vancouver. When it was my turn, I did my best to confidently descend like I’d done it a million times before. The property lies about 1-1/2 miles on the west coast south of the main hiking trail. You will be hiking in a temperate marine climate. A long beach march took us towards Irony Creek Camp. We were also happy to use an intertidal route and avoid the unpredictable rope down the landslide rib between Tripod Beach and Cape Sutil. The North Coast Trail Shuttle, which offers boat transfers to Shushartie Bay and pick up from the Cape Scott Trailhead operates May 1 to Sept 15. We opted for warm and cozy recovery activities instead. The minimum recommended one way hiking time is 5 days; although, it is more commonly completed in 6 to 8 days. Finally we could walk with easy flow! North Coast Trail & Cape Scott/San Josef Bay Trailhead, May 2018 For more information see my French Travel Blog of this journey on Vancouver Island NCT ! Our walk was nice and easy, with sandy beaches, plank roads, and wide trail. As we keep going on trips together, that feeling will be with you all the time.” All the beauty and wonder of the week crystallized for me in that moment. 0:06. Artifacts and evidence of this time were present and highlighted with interpretive plaques. Today’s forest sections were less boggy but offered more mud. Part trail map, part field guide, part regional history, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail is the first comprehensive guidebook about one of Vancouver Island's most iconic destinations. The zone is a gorgeous beach about 1 km in length. Here is a fantastic HD video of The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park: Posted by CapeScottPark at 9:38 AM No comments: Soon all our things were wet and sandy; Mike was the only one with the skills to keep his dry. Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek 8.1km (5-7 hrs.) The rainforest sections have their own challenges: steep overland sections, blowdowns to crawl over or under, knee-deep mud, and slippery roots. 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